Litter Box Types: How to Choose the Right One for Your Cat

There are six main litter box types: open pans, covered (hooded) boxes, top-entry boxes, sifting systems, automatic self-cleaning boxes and high-sided or stainless steel boxes. The best one is the one your cat uses every time and you can keep clean. For most cats that means a large, open or lightly covered box, scooped daily. Special designs solve special problems: a top-entry box for a dog that raids the box, an automatic box for a busy household, a low-entry box for a senior cat.

Below, each type is covered in turn: what it does well, where it fails and who it fits. Then comes the question of covered versus uncovered, what the research says about size and number of boxes, and how to switch without upsetting your cat.

TL;DR

• Size and cleanliness matter more than the type. A box that is too small or scooped too rarely is the usual reason cats go elsewhere.
• Open boxes are the default most behaviorists suggest. Covered boxes are fine if your cat accepts them and you scoop on schedule.
• Top-entry, sifting and automatic boxes each fix a specific problem (dogs, litter tracking, scooping time). None is a universal upgrade.
• Keep one box per cat plus one extra, in quiet spots, and change types gradually.
• Seniors, kittens and cats with arthritis need low entry points, whatever type you choose.

Table of Contents

• The main litter box types at a glance
• Open litter boxes
• Covered (hooded) litter boxes
• Top-entry litter boxes
• Sifting litter box systems
• Automatic and self-cleaning litter boxes
• Stainless steel and high-sided boxes
• Size, number and placement matter more than type
• Litter choice shapes the box experience
• Which type for which cat
• Our perspective
• Shopping for the rest of your cat’s setup
• Switching to a new litter box without trouble
• FAQ
• Sources

The main litter box types at a glance

Open litter boxes

An open box is a plain tray with no lid. It is the simplest design, usually the cheapest, and the easiest to scoop and wash. Your cat can see out, which matters to cats that feel trapped in enclosed spaces, and you can see in. That second point is more valuable than it sounds: a change in the size, number or look of clumps is often the first sign of a health problem.

The research on covered versus uncovered boxes concludes that, as long as the box is kept clean, most cats show no significant preference either way. Even so, behaviorists tend to recommend open boxes because they make it easier to monitor your cat’s health and discourage infrequent scooping.

The downsides are real. Digging cats scatter litter, and odor is not contained. A high-sided open tray helps with scatter, and a washable mat at the exit catches most of the rest.

Best for: most healthy adult cats, shy cats, large cats, and owners who want to keep an eye on output.

Covered (hooded) litter boxes

A covered box is a pan with a hood and a flap or open doorway. People like them for privacy, for hiding the mess from guests and for keeping litter and dust inside. Some cats like the privacy too.

The trade-off is air. Odors concentrate inside the hood, and a cat that finds the box unpleasant may decide to avoid it. Covered boxes can also hide a dirty tray from you, so scooping slips. One review of covered and open boxes notes that covered boxes contain odors and dust but can harbor bacteria if not cleaned regularly is a point worth keeping in mind, since the hood shields the problem from view. Check that cats of your cat’s size can turn around comfortably and that the hood is tall enough.

Best for: owners who want to limit scatter and visibility, and cats that clearly accept a hood. If your cat hesitates, take the lid off for a week and watch.

Covered or uncovered: how to decide

Start with your cat, not the product. Offer one of each side by side for a week or two and see which gets used. If both are used equally, choose whichever you will scoop more reliably. If you find yourself putting off scooping a covered box because you cannot see it, go open.

Top-entry litter boxes

A top-entry box is a covered tub with an opening in the lid, and the cat jumps in from above. The design keeps litter inside (kicked litter falls back into the box), and it keeps dogs and toddlers out. For households with a dog that treats the box as a snack bar, it is often the simplest fix.

It is a poor fit for kittens, senior cats, overweight cats and cats with arthritis, since jumping in and out of a box is exactly what they struggle with. The design also hides the contents, so scooping discipline matters. If you try one, check that your cat can enter and exit without effort, and keep a second, easier box available while the cat decides.

Best for: active adult cats in homes with dogs or small children.

Sifting litter box systems

Sifting systems use two or three stacked trays. You lift the top tray, which has slots, and clean litter falls through to the bottom while clumps stay behind. They save time and make scooping less of a chore, and many people find they scoop more often as a result.

They work with certain litters, usually clumping or specific granule sizes, and they have more parts to wash. Another style, the pellet and pad system, uses a grate over an absorbent pad. Preventive Vet describes the trade-off: the urine passes through the pellets to the pad, which suits some cats but not those that dislike the feel of pellets underfoot. Some cats also refuse the grate surface, so test it on a small scale first.

Best for: owners who want quicker cleaning and a cat that tolerates the litter the system calls for.

Automatic and self-cleaning litter boxes

Automatic boxes scoop for you after each visit, using a rake, a rotating drum or a sifting mechanism, and drop waste into a sealed compartment. They cut daily scooping and are popular with multi-cat homes and with owners who travel for work or have limited mobility. The category is growing: market research puts automatic and self-cleaning boxes among the main product segments alongside covered and open formats.

They cost far more than a plain tray. In one 2026 testing roundup, the top-rated automatic box listed at $699 is not what that page covers, so check current prices at the store yourself, as they vary widely by model and retailer. Other considerations:

• Noise and motion. Some cats are startled by the cycle. Run it empty at first, or leave it switched off while the cat gets used to it.
• Cat size and weight. Sensors usually have a minimum weight, so very small cats and kittens may not trigger them reliably.
• Still a chore. You still need to empty the waste compartment and wash the unit periodically.
• Keep a backup. A cat that dislikes the machine needs a plain box in the house.

Wirecutter’s testers, for what it is worth, stuck to simple litter boxes and avoided gimmicky models, which is a useful reminder that simple often wins.

Best for: busy households, multi-cat homes and owners who find daily scooping hard.

Stainless steel and high-sided boxes

Plastic is still the dominant material, with an estimated 78.4% share of the market in 2025, thanks to its price and range of shapes. Stainless steel is a smaller but fast-growing alternative: the same report projects roughly 9.3% annual growth for metal litter boxes from 2026 to 2034, with owners citing durability, resistance to odor absorption and antimicrobial properties.

The practical case for steel is simple. Plastic scratches, and scratches hold bacteria and smell. Steel does not scratch as easily, rinses clean and lasts for years. The cost is a higher price and, sometimes, a cold, noisy surface that a few cats dislike. High sides stop sprayers and diggers from making a mess, but be sure the entry is low enough for older cats.

Best for: owners fed up with replacing stained plastic, and cats that dig or spray over the edge.

Size, number and placement matter more than type

Veterinary guidance is consistent here. The AAFP and ISFM guidelines on house soiling note that the average cat eliminates approximately three to five times a day and that the design and management of the litter box are critical for encouraging acceptable toileting habits. In practice that means:

1. Go big. The commonly cited rule is a box about 1.5 times your cat’s body length, measured from nose to the base of the tail. Many store-bought boxes are smaller than that. A large under-bed storage tub is a cheap workaround.
2. One box per cat, plus one. The same guidelines recommend more boxes than cats, spread across the home rather than lined up side by side.
3. Choose quiet, easy-access spots. Avoid noisy laundry rooms, dead-end corners and anywhere the cat can be ambushed by a dog or another cat.
4. Scoop at least once a day. Wash the box with mild unscented soap on a regular schedule. Strong cleaners and scented litters put some cats off.
5. Match the box to the life stage. Kittens, seniors and cats with joint pain need a low edge. A cut-down entry on a plastic tub is an inexpensive fix.

If your cat starts going outside the box, see your veterinarian before assuming it is a behavior problem. Urinary tract disease, kidney disease and arthritis can all change litter box habits.

Litter choice shapes the box experience

The box type is only half the setup. Clay (clumping or not) is the common budget option, and silica crystals, pellets and natural litters (wood, paper, corn, tofu) each change how a box smells and how often you refill it.

One product type deserves a caution. Color-changing silica litters are marketed for urinary health monitoring. Vetstreet’s review describes them as a screening tool rather than a diagnosis, and notes they work poorly in multi-cat homes because you cannot tell which cat caused a color change. It lists that kind of litter at roughly $3.00 per pound with a monthly replacement cycle, so confirm current pricing. If a color change appears, or your cat strains, cries or visits the box often, call your vet the same day. Male cats that cannot pass urine need emergency care. For another perspective on watching a cat’s body and behavior over time, see this cat-care read on tracking changes week by week.

Which type for which cat

• Healthy adult, single cat: a large open box or a roomy hooded one. Start open.
• Multi-cat home: several large open boxes in different rooms. Add an automatic one only if scooping is the bottleneck.
• Kitten: a shallow tray with a low entry, in an easy-to-reach spot.
• Senior or arthritic cat: a low-entry open box. Avoid top-entry and high-sided designs.
• Home with a dog: top-entry or a covered box placed behind a baby gate or cat door.
• Litter scatterer: a high-sided open box, a covered box or a top-entry box, plus a mat.
• Shy or anxious cat: open box in a quiet corner, with a clear view of the room.

Our perspective

We curate products for the everyday routines around the house, and cat care is one of the clearest examples of a routine where convenience and quality should work together. Our view is plain: pick the simplest setup that your cat accepts and that you will keep up with. A feature-packed box that goes unscooped is worse than a basic one cleaned every day.

That is also how we choose what goes on our pet shelves. We look for items that make a daily task easier without making it more complicated: practical, durable and fairly priced. If a gadget adds steps, noise or parts to wash, it has to earn its place. Introduce any new equipment slowly, watch your cat’s response and let the cat vote.

— Namorra

Shopping for the rest of your cat’s setup

Once the box is sorted, the rest of the routine matters too: where your cat eats, sleeps and travels. Our Pet Beds & Feeding collection covers feeding and resting gear, and our Pet Carriers & Travel collection helps with vet visits. You can also browse everything across the Namorra store, from pet supplies to smart home and wellness products.

Switching to a new litter box without trouble

Cats resist abrupt changes. Follow these steps:

1. Add, do not replace. Put the new box next to the old one and leave both available for at least a couple of weeks.
2. Use the same litter at first. Change the box or the litter, never both at once.
3. Move the old box last. Once the new box is in steady use, remove the old one gradually.
4. Watch for warning signs. Going next to the box, hesitating at the entrance or scratching at the walls means the new design is not working. Go back a step.
5. Clean thoroughly. Wash the old box before reuse. Lingering smell of urine can draw a cat back to a spot.

FAQ

Is a covered or uncovered litter box better?

For most cats, neither wins as long as the box is clean. A study review found no significant preference in the majority of cats, though behaviorists generally favor open boxes for easier health monitoring. Offer both and let your cat choose.

What size litter box does my cat need?

A common guideline is about 1.5 times your cat’s length, nose to base of tail. Bigger is nearly always better, and most commercial boxes run small. Large breeds and seniors benefit most from extra room and a low entry.

How many litter boxes should I have?

One per cat plus one extra is the standard recommendation from veterinary guidelines. Place them in separate locations so one cat cannot guard them all.

Is plastic or stainless steel better for a litter box?

Plastic is cheaper and lighter, while stainless steel resists scratches and odor absorption and lasts longer. If your plastic box is scratched and still smells after washing, it is time to replace it, and steel is a good option.

Sources

• Litter box preference in domestic cats: covered versus uncovered (PMC)
• AAFP and ISFM Guidelines for Diagnosing and Solving House-Soiling Behavior in Cats
• How to Choose the Best Litter Box for Your Cat, Preventive Vet
• Pretty Litter Review, Vetstreet
• Cat Litter Box Market Size, Share & Forecast Report, Dataintelo
• The 5 Best Cat Litter Boxes, Wirecutter

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